Sanur is a delight! I’ve rediscovered my equilibrium since arriving here, and am loving the place, the beach, the markets, the food, the temples…………………
The temples are a crazy, eclectic assortment of Balinese Hindu –with Buddhism thrown in for good measure-shrines devoted to every God under the sun (and yes, that one too!) at every turn. Every house has its custodians, not just the temples, every doorway is ‘guarded’ by twin pillars; human, animal, and varieties I between!
Tiny ceremonies are held all the time, and offerings burnt continually to placate demons and ensure balance between good and evil forces (apparently). It’s a very different type of Hinduism to India, this one worships a trinity, three aspects of one good, and gods of earth, wind, fire, water, mountains, fertility, rice, technology, etc etc………apparently the belief in karma is shared, but otherwise the whole culture and religion seems completely different.
I read up on it at the museum (more on that later) …no arranged marriages, a sense of calm and tranquillity, and a tolerance towards visitors-unlike India, I was welcomed both yesterday and today into any and every temple, shrine…….
Today began with a bike ride to the mango swamps, where my first temple of the day awaited me, in the middle of nowhere, where the swamps meet an inlet
Indonesian breakfast on the beach at the renowned ‘Titie's’ (made me laugh) of fried noodles and veg, an egg, fruit platter and tea was grand - its wok flash cooked, so not fatty, great after Indian and Sri Lankan cuisine.
Duly fuelled, I cycled on and found the well-hidden Le Mayeur Museum, a real gem. He was a Belgian painter who married an Indonesian dancer, and the museum is set in his home, full of intricate wooden carvings, the stone walls embossed with fascinating figures, and rooms full of paintings in a style reminiscent of Monet.
I loved them, and found his exploration of Balinese culture in colourful oil paintings totally absorbing. I’ve sent a pic of me posing by the couples memorial in the beautifully kept garden-I was the only person there, and the staff were so attentive, bless them.
I sat in the shade gazing through his doorway to the beach beyond before returning for a swim to ease my legs …it’s fabulous to be active, and feel tired from physical exhaustion rather than travel exhaustion, but a) I’m out of practise b) it’s hot and c) I’m based in one end of the town, and the museum is in the other, about 8kms away.
The cycle path runs along the beach, winding through market stalls, street vendors, massage beds, posh hotels, cafes and bars, a fantastic view of the beach, but concentration is needed to avoid potholes, walkers and the ‘speed’ bumps/barriers surrounding the luxury resorts….
So post swim I took the road, dodging motorbikes, cars, dogs-there is no road sense here, everyone just goes where they want to, round roundabouts the wrong way, up the pavement, across in front of me…somewhat scary!
The street is full of massage/beauty/spars/cafes/western outlets like crocs/French bakeries and delicatessens, and cafes of the ‘Warung’ variety-i.e. traditional roadside (though nowadays everywhere) Indonesian cooking. The ‘packets’ of noodles or rice with whatever you choose baked in bamboo leaves are everywhere, as is the smell of cooking, and chicken – a mitt off-putting for me.
So when on my bike I came upon……a MacDonald’s, for lunch it had to be an ice cream cone, an enormous one, for the princely sum of nothing in English money….the Balinese don’t seem to do ice cream, only the gelato bars for the tourists on the front at very inflated prices, so my conscience is clear –ish.
I found the supermarket-a real one rather than mini-marts, and dived in amongst the hoards for shampoo…and then the market, which is much more my thing! Apples, bananas, tofu slices and a soy vegetable pie from the stalls….and for once I was actually charged the same as the locals, i.e. nothing much, yummy.
I’m still having trouble with the money, there’s so many noughts on the notes, everything is in thousands, yet its very cheap, my mind can’t get to grips with that notion, and my eyes water at the 0000s on the notes………..
Sitting under the stars having tea under a bamboo tree with the hospitable family here at the Sun house Guest House, today has been a joy. The relaxed Balinese culture is suiting me just fine!
The temples are a crazy, eclectic assortment of Balinese Hindu –with Buddhism thrown in for good measure-shrines devoted to every God under the sun (and yes, that one too!) at every turn. Every house has its custodians, not just the temples, every doorway is ‘guarded’ by twin pillars; human, animal, and varieties I between!
Tiny ceremonies are held all the time, and offerings burnt continually to placate demons and ensure balance between good and evil forces (apparently). It’s a very different type of Hinduism to India, this one worships a trinity, three aspects of one good, and gods of earth, wind, fire, water, mountains, fertility, rice, technology, etc etc………apparently the belief in karma is shared, but otherwise the whole culture and religion seems completely different.
I read up on it at the museum (more on that later) …no arranged marriages, a sense of calm and tranquillity, and a tolerance towards visitors-unlike India, I was welcomed both yesterday and today into any and every temple, shrine…….
Today began with a bike ride to the mango swamps, where my first temple of the day awaited me, in the middle of nowhere, where the swamps meet an inlet
 |
| Swamp temple |
Indonesian breakfast on the beach at the renowned ‘Titie's’ (made me laugh) of fried noodles and veg, an egg, fruit platter and tea was grand - its wok flash cooked, so not fatty, great after Indian and Sri Lankan cuisine.
 |
| Breakfast at Tities! |
I loved them, and found his exploration of Balinese culture in colourful oil paintings totally absorbing. I’ve sent a pic of me posing by the couples memorial in the beautifully kept garden-I was the only person there, and the staff were so attentive, bless them.
I sat in the shade gazing through his doorway to the beach beyond before returning for a swim to ease my legs …it’s fabulous to be active, and feel tired from physical exhaustion rather than travel exhaustion, but a) I’m out of practise b) it’s hot and c) I’m based in one end of the town, and the museum is in the other, about 8kms away.
 |
| Le Mayeur's Door to the Beach |
So post swim I took the road, dodging motorbikes, cars, dogs-there is no road sense here, everyone just goes where they want to, round roundabouts the wrong way, up the pavement, across in front of me…somewhat scary!
The street is full of massage/beauty/spars/cafes/western outlets like crocs/French bakeries and delicatessens, and cafes of the ‘Warung’ variety-i.e. traditional roadside (though nowadays everywhere) Indonesian cooking. The ‘packets’ of noodles or rice with whatever you choose baked in bamboo leaves are everywhere, as is the smell of cooking, and chicken – a mitt off-putting for me.
So when on my bike I came upon……a MacDonald’s, for lunch it had to be an ice cream cone, an enormous one, for the princely sum of nothing in English money….the Balinese don’t seem to do ice cream, only the gelato bars for the tourists on the front at very inflated prices, so my conscience is clear –ish.
I found the supermarket-a real one rather than mini-marts, and dived in amongst the hoards for shampoo…and then the market, which is much more my thing! Apples, bananas, tofu slices and a soy vegetable pie from the stalls….and for once I was actually charged the same as the locals, i.e. nothing much, yummy.
I’m still having trouble with the money, there’s so many noughts on the notes, everything is in thousands, yet its very cheap, my mind can’t get to grips with that notion, and my eyes water at the 0000s on the notes………..
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