Well, I’m sitting here finishing my coffee and toast in the shady courtyard garden of the ‘motel’…there are more guests here now, so funnily enough the wi-fi works, and there is fresh coffee……
Kandy itself has been wonderful, my decision not to go out on day excursions to the cave temples or the elephant sanctuary has meant I have had time to wander the many temples, spend nearly a day in the Temple of Sacred Tooth, see the pilgrims who flock from countries to worship here, talk to the mothers and babies, who had kept their babies indoors for months until the chance to travel, be in the right place and time to see the door open and the relic exposed, and admire the tiny temples dotted on the four corners.
There have been numerous unexpected surprises. I spent a fascinating hour in the Garrison cemetery, being treated to a personal guided tour by a passionate youth and his grandfather (who didn’t want a tip, really cared) they were Buddhists, apparently there is tension between the Buddhists, who want the cemetery closed as its in the line of sight of the temple, and the historians who cherish the ancient sites which dot the country.
The tombs are moving, everyone died young, mainly from malaria, cut off from Britain during the days of the colonies, many families arriving from England only to die, children too, within days of sickness. The British legacy is strong, architecture, ways of behaving…esp the burocracy, the railway system and the British tea and coffee, which exist alongside the local markets, heaving with fruit and veg, and local cafes serving ‘packets’ (curries of your choice wrapped in hoppers/dosa) for next to nothing, and juice bars-fresh juice is so cheap here, and often comes with ice cream, which so far hasn’t made me ill (fingers crossed) and is fabulous.
The air is clean and fresh compared to the city, and the surrounding mountains and greenery everywhere, even green grass, the smell of incense and the lotus flower sellers –for temple offerings-everywhere, and the persistent drumming from the sacred tooth shrine, make a unique atmosphere.
The lake provides a stunning city centre calmness, and the tuck tuck drivers zoom around it and up into the villages and into the tiny lanes of the town, balancing on tiny roads with deep drains either side. Interestingly, here’s the only place I’ve been in a road accident-coming back from my pool swim with friends to see the culture show yesterday, our tuck tuck collided with another!!
Amaziing it doesn’t happen more often! His rickshaw was a write-off, we were immediately collected by another (hundreds of spare vehicles appeared as quickly as the policemen!!) and got to the show in time.
The Kandian dancers are the traditional dancing show celebrating unique Kandy heritage, and, although similar to others I’ve seen in India in terms of spectacle, silver, gold, headdresses, bizarre rituals and group acrobatics, also had its own Sri Lankan take, including the final fire walk!!
I have fantastic memories of Kandy, the people and the place have trumped the grim ‘hostel’ –in fairness, breakfast is good-and I have slept well. Last night, driving back in the tuck tuck under the stars, coming down from the village in the mountains, fireflies twinkling around me, watching the high peaks in the moonlight, was such a fabulous experience.
So I’m off for the train to Colombo, and for my next flight onwards to Bali-nervous about moving on, as always…watch this space!
Kandy itself has been wonderful, my decision not to go out on day excursions to the cave temples or the elephant sanctuary has meant I have had time to wander the many temples, spend nearly a day in the Temple of Sacred Tooth, see the pilgrims who flock from countries to worship here, talk to the mothers and babies, who had kept their babies indoors for months until the chance to travel, be in the right place and time to see the door open and the relic exposed, and admire the tiny temples dotted on the four corners.
There have been numerous unexpected surprises. I spent a fascinating hour in the Garrison cemetery, being treated to a personal guided tour by a passionate youth and his grandfather (who didn’t want a tip, really cared) they were Buddhists, apparently there is tension between the Buddhists, who want the cemetery closed as its in the line of sight of the temple, and the historians who cherish the ancient sites which dot the country.
The tombs are moving, everyone died young, mainly from malaria, cut off from Britain during the days of the colonies, many families arriving from England only to die, children too, within days of sickness. The British legacy is strong, architecture, ways of behaving…esp the burocracy, the railway system and the British tea and coffee, which exist alongside the local markets, heaving with fruit and veg, and local cafes serving ‘packets’ (curries of your choice wrapped in hoppers/dosa) for next to nothing, and juice bars-fresh juice is so cheap here, and often comes with ice cream, which so far hasn’t made me ill (fingers crossed) and is fabulous.
The air is clean and fresh compared to the city, and the surrounding mountains and greenery everywhere, even green grass, the smell of incense and the lotus flower sellers –for temple offerings-everywhere, and the persistent drumming from the sacred tooth shrine, make a unique atmosphere.
The lake provides a stunning city centre calmness, and the tuck tuck drivers zoom around it and up into the villages and into the tiny lanes of the town, balancing on tiny roads with deep drains either side. Interestingly, here’s the only place I’ve been in a road accident-coming back from my pool swim with friends to see the culture show yesterday, our tuck tuck collided with another!!
Amaziing it doesn’t happen more often! His rickshaw was a write-off, we were immediately collected by another (hundreds of spare vehicles appeared as quickly as the policemen!!) and got to the show in time.
The Kandian dancers are the traditional dancing show celebrating unique Kandy heritage, and, although similar to others I’ve seen in India in terms of spectacle, silver, gold, headdresses, bizarre rituals and group acrobatics, also had its own Sri Lankan take, including the final fire walk!!
I have fantastic memories of Kandy, the people and the place have trumped the grim ‘hostel’ –in fairness, breakfast is good-and I have slept well. Last night, driving back in the tuck tuck under the stars, coming down from the village in the mountains, fireflies twinkling around me, watching the high peaks in the moonlight, was such a fabulous experience.
So I’m off for the train to Colombo, and for my next flight onwards to Bali-nervous about moving on, as always…watch this space!
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