End of an era.

The sun has set on my final day away. Tomorrow night our flight is due to leave for the long haul back to England, and my ‘usual’ life. My every day reality of life in Lewes today feels as odd as arriving in India did in January.

I cannot remember what it feels like to have a bath-even a power shower with hot water in Bangkok was a wonderful luxury after many weeks of taps, cold water or even no water at all!-and a western toilet with a working flush (and permission to use it!) also felt wonderful when I met Paul in Bangkok. So my own bathroom at home will now take some getting used to.

As will a cooker. I have not used anything other than a shared outdoor gas ring for months, and certainly not cooked anything other than instant noodles!!  I have learnt to eat with the locals, i.e. at stalls/shacks, where the variety and access to a fantastic assortment of anything and everything has given my taste buds and my appetite a new zest for life. Going back to English food, without the extremes of sweet, sour, spices will be odd-my last supper here was a bag of sweetened sweet corn with coconut,  iced coffee made the Thai way, with sugar and evaporated milk, longan berries and a bag of spiced pineapple.

And as for driving-I’m used to weaving in and out of tuk tuks and motorbikes on foot or on two wheels of my own, but driving A CAR…in traffic-oh hum, that may take a few days to get my head around.

Our last day in Bangkok has passed in a whirl of final sights, sounds and smells. Paul and I dodged another torrential rain storm this morning by taking the sky train to find the day version of the night markets in Silom-i.e. a ‘flea’ market, great fun, and then lunch in a local restaurant, where the waitress gave us a free desert to try the traditional black herb in ice with sugar, yummy. Then via the metro to Chinatown, and the most frenetic tuk tuk driver yet to the flower markets and some final souvenir shopping in the bazaars…

Sunset ferry ride back to the hotel and a final wander around Wongwian Yai, the streets around the hotel are awash with markets, fruit, fish, vegetables, and food carts.  Tomorrow morning we shall pack our cases for the final time. It’s been a wonderful holiday for the two of us, and for me a good way to ease the transition from solo backpacking to normal life. I shall miss living out of my black case. My life since January 6^th has been contained in a small rucksack, liberating due to the freedom from possessions, carrying with me only the bare minimum and living from day to day.

I have missed my family, and my home, and can’t wait to see them, but this has been such an amazing trip, Edwina’s travels 3??  Watch this space!!

Overnight train to Bangkok.

Final day in Chang Mai wandering around more Temples (how many Wots can one city have?!) and enjoying a delightful lunch at the Women’s Prison.

This city centre compound is famous for massages and food; the women are trained ready for rehabilitation. Alas, no time for a massage, but sitting in the a/c café being served by prisoners watched by guards was fun, esp. as the food was wonderful.

Then off to Chang Mai station for the overnight sleeper to Bangkok. Which had obviously mechanical problems-40 minutes past advertised departure time we were all still sitting on our luggage on the platform watching workers gathered round the train on the far side of the tracks?

When the train finally lurched out and in again, and we clambered on, our little cabin was delightful. See pic of me sitting in comfort on our settee; we had our own sink, a fair amount of luggage room, and clean linen, pillows and towels.  Ok, we were travelling first class, but for the princely sum of £30 each it was worth going in comfort/privacy. And for me a treat after backpacking the hard way around India, I totally appreciated it!!

Supper was served in our cabin, a four course meal for around £4, and then the staff turned down the beds-literally, as the settee became bunk beds, surprisingly spacious.

Having eaten watching the setting sun over the rice fields of rural Thailand, we settled into bed as darkness fell, lulled to sleep by rocking and swaying.

The dawn sunrise woke us in time to gaze on final time on the endless rice paddies, villages and temples of Thailand.  This country is great, one minute we were admiring an ancient ruined Wot and then a giant gold monkey goes past the window (see pic!).

The late departure obviously set the pace for the whole journey-we finally pulled into Bangkok three hours late, but twas no problem, watching the countryside change into the suburbs and then into the city were fascinating. And on arrival I bargained for a tuk tuk (the traffic here is so bad a taxi takes ages, and the metro, whilst fast, is a pain with luggage…) and so we arrived again at the Bangkok Loft Inn with the wind in our hair, traffic fumes in our nostrils, and our luggage hanging around us by pieces of rope, expertly tied on by our driver, who did a very neat job of avoiding the gridlock.

A restorative shower and lunch at the local street stalls and we felt ready to hit the city. Just in time for a massive thunderstorm! We leapt of the river ferry and into cover as the monsoon rains fell like a black sheet, and passed a pleasant hour with Ice Coffee chatting to everyone else stranded until the storm passed.

Then into the Amulet market, lanes full of stalls devoted to talisman, and lucky charm hunters. The superstitions passed us by, but we were absorbed spotting everything from dentures (used!), tiny tiny relics, massive stone sculptures and colourful gems/jewels.

Our last full day tomorrow. The months I have been away have gone so fast, full of intense experiences and emotions, yet England seems so far away now. Fingers crossed the weather is warming up!!!!

Today a wot with a difference, Wot U Mung, a forest temple 30 minutes from the city (negotiated a cheap price with Mr Pitchet, our friendly local driver, so half an hour of bumpy 'short cuts' and bruised bums!). An atmospheric surreal complex of working Buddist temple and monastory among historic ruins. The ancient temple was believed to have been build for a wondering monk, and is a series of underground connecting tunnels linking shrines. Built into the rock face, devotees believe the wall paintings, which can still be seen clearly, were painted to convince the monk he was outside in the forest, so he would stay put for consultations! Historians believe otherwise, but no one can work out when they were actually painted. Either way, its a moving monument, and sitting cross legged in front of budda staring at carvings of moon, stars, birds and animals (see last pic) felt very spiritual, not a sound to be heard below the earth.

I've sent pics of assorted moments from the morning, including a budda which both Paul and I decided was worshipping Marmite,

  me with a bizarre grotesque statue of a fasting Budda, 

one of me in the tunnels by a shrine, 

our favourite saying from the many dotted around the forest setting, 

and a sample of the cave paintings.

This afternoon, post swim and recuperative Thai food, we ventured into the night bazaars, and came away with assorted goodies plus memories of the cabaret acts getting into full swing!! Ladyboys of Chang Mai....

The Elephant Nature Park.

Paul and I spent today with the elephants in the sanctuary outside Chang Mai-not one of the tour/trekking camps which dominate the area, but the only one of its kind here, a true elephant rescue/conservation area.

It’s the one where our daughter, Annie, volunteered for a week last year, see www.elephantnaturefoundation.org for details

It is truly an amazing place, founded by a lone Thai woman  battling against opposition from both locals and the state-the elephant may be sacred in Thailand, but still abused so much, not just from logging, which still goes on despite being outlawed in many states, but through their use in the tourist trade.

Now 36 elephants roam freely in a mountain rainforest setting. Setting off early in their minibus with our tour guide Marissa,  65kms later up windy twisting narrow steep hillsides we emerged into ‘elephant heaven’.

Two days ago a new baby was born; and we were able to peer in amazement at this tiny hairy miniature elephant, staggering under its mother. The other elephants, even from other ‘family groups’ were as keen as us to see the new arrival, and many times we had to take shelter hastily as elephants charged. One in particular, a youngster, was misbehaving to the extent that his mahout (keeper) ended up in a tree!

We were able to feed them, bath them and, when a calm group or pair were happy –ears waving and trunks swaying-and the mahout would permit it, we could stroke and talk to them. Each individual elephant had his or her own sad past and now a happy life, several times I was moved to tears, esp. the elephant that has a broken hip from forced breeding, and limped patiently along to see me, and those blinded from circus shows or maltreatment.

The park has an organic garden and provided a gorgeous vegetarian buffet, much to my delight. We trekked the hills following the elephants (we follow the mahouts, who follow the elephants, guess who’s in charge here….), and then when they went for a bath in the river, so did we!! And then the elephants got out, and covered themselves in mud again…ready for us to wash it off yet again!

We arrived back dusty, smelling of elephant poo and river water, and with memories that will last a lifetime.

Chang Mai

Bid fond farewell to our island retreat from the dawn ferry to Koh Samui, watching the sun rise as the beach receded. Arrived at the tiny airport in time to transfer to earlier connecting flights, thank you Bangkok airways, which not only offered this without us even requesting it, but then provided food and even hot drinks on each leg to Chang Mai, both under an hour!

And we’d enjoyed a sumptuous free breakfast buffet whilst waiting to board at Koh Samui-we were a mit stuffed on arrival here.

The Eco Resort hostel we’d booked from England is rather odd-tiny motel like rooms around an enormous Olympic style pool, open to non residents, and a very pricey restaurant alongside the dormitories...a weird mix of backpackers and upmarket facilities. 

We’ve got an upstairs private room with its own separate living space and bathroom, rather than being in the main part, because I ended up in tears in reception when we arrived and the staff upgraded us! In my defence, the tears were not just because the allocated room was next to the pool changing area, but because in the dark at 5am I’d finally fallen over the shower step in Koh Phangan and my little toe was excoriating I was in agony.

It’s black and swollen, but strapped up is ok, so no worries, and a nicer room here in exchange for the pain!!

The first evening we staggered-in my case literally-around the night markets/bazaars, eating yet more street food to keep our energy up and gazing at the vast halls and alleys full of goods. Today we’ve explored and got the hang of getting a tuck tuck or a shared open topped ‘taxi’ which you hail in the street, to get around

Paul had his first massage-he and I both treated ourselves to a 30 min back, neck and shoulder indulgence. Compared to Bali, the pressure is the same (ie hard!!) but the Thai technique involves more pulling and stretching-I rekcon my arms left their sockets at one point, and my neck turned full circle………..

We’ve began the foray into the many different markets which dominate Chang Mai, today being Saturday, there is a ‘walking street’ which goes on for miles-it took us hours to wander, peruse, eat ‘ancient’ or ‘antique’ ice creams (we’re thinking it should be ‘traditional’) of assorted flavours –in my case, black bean , which tasted like rum and raison-sticky rice and red beans, and a bag full of  bizarre marshmallow like puffballs in coconut made from steamed tree fibres, washed down with sugarcane juice.

Me  looking up for inspiration in Chinatown market-wearing new dress purchased from a stall somewhere in these massive structures.

Me posing outside the Chinese temple, during a cultural break from shopping!

Happy Easter

Happy seasonal greetings to everyone in England-a surreal sensation, sending this, as nothing here in any shape or form refers to Easter, not even any choccie eggs in the brand new Tesco at the harbour.

That’s also surreal-the layout, the value lines, and the reduced stickers, all as per England….only arriving by motorbike, and winding back along narrow roads admiring coastal bays with the beers wedged between our knees mildy different….and more fun than driving up the a27 (yes, we did get the bargains, ripe mangos, ymmmy)

As you can see from the pics, we have been relaxing on the beach, and rediscovering old pleasures….hiring a motorbike and exploring with the wind in our hair, sitting on the beach sharing the Chang beer (very tasty) we feel like aging hippies, tis a good feeling.

I am sitting cross legged typing this in the shady pagoda in the gardens, watching dad drift about on the lilo, he has been swimming here, the water is soo clear, and the buoyancy so good, and I have been able to snorkel for the first time in years as the water is as calm as a millpond, even over the coral reef. The fish are phenonomenal, I had forgotten how moving watching the underwater world is, space outside space, another kingdom, going about its own business, putting ours into perspective.

The cove here is quiet, away from the resorts of the full moon beach, although we have heard a few residual celebrations. Thonsgsalla is an odd mix of local town and harbour, and party central. Good to take the bike for the food markets, day and night, and of course Tesco, but then to retreat back away from the crowds to our own quiet corner of the island, tucked underneath the mountains, watching fishermen and women wade in with nets, collecting urchins, sitting for hours each evening staring at the setting sun and the glorious afterglow…………I reckon I may have got the hang of relaxing finally, and its wonderful. Koh Phangan is our own personal paradise.

Koh phangan

Paul and I have found our own little piece of peace and paradise. We may be on the party capital of Thailand, but our villa is overlooking a calm, tranquil bay, surrounded only by a few other bungalows and gardens. The village is ten minutes walk away, a small collection of shacks, great local cafes.

There is a restaurant attached here, where we enjoy our free breakfast overlooking the water, but tis pricey for dinner-we’ve already found our favourite. Mama Pooh’s thai café, and a pic shows Paul tucking in to lunch!

The Blue Ocean Gardens provides us with a kayak, which we’ve had great fun with (see pic of Paul-guess what, he’s now got sunburnt legs), comfy sun beds under coconut palms, and a hammock, which I appreciate! (pic)

The sands are empty, bar the odd ‘Zen’ house; we are the other side of the island to the full moon parties/nightclubs, and in the middle of nowhere. The sunsets are beautiful (see pic) and we’ve just relaxed, swam in the warm millpond like sea, snorkelled to see multi-coloured fish, and sat on our veranda watching the fishing boats in the night sky.

It’s a wonderful contrast to the buzz of Bangkok, and just what we needed, to spend time together catching up after 3 months apart, and just ‘chilling’ , a holiday time.

Bangkok was brilliant; we caught the famous Emerald Buddha between costume changes, the jade gleaming in the sunlight, and had enough time to explore in depth.

We found a good deal via a local to cruise the narrow canals and see the waterside villages/floating markets, and got another good deal to explore the city by tuck tuk (we negotiated, very very cheap in exchange for visiting a few shops, a two hour city tour/temple stops for about £1-I can haggle with the best of them now!).

But leaving the noise and crowds behind and arriving here is heavenly. The journey was easy, we treated ourselves to a flight to Koh Samui , travelling out on the skyline over the clogged traffic, hopping onto the short flight watching the skyscrapers and temples of Bangkok fade below us as the staff served a full meal in 50 minutes; Asian Airlines seem amazingly efficient!- and then descending onto the tiny little airport at Koh Samui.

As the fast ferry sped us over to Koh Phangan, I balanced on the upper deck gazing at the islands and the glorious sunset. ….apart from maybe hiring a motorbike to explore, methinks there will not be too much report for the next few days……….I’m getting the hang of relaxing at last!!