Finally discovered that the Indian Biennale, the art festival which is such a major deal here and yet, to my eyes, looks like western contemporary art from a decade ago, does have a cutting edge.
Aspinwall house, the main venue, set in a massive disused spice warehouse by the beach, had stunning, moving, thought provoking and just fun exhibitions.
So I spent a happy hour before the sunset promenade absorbed in poetry and paintings, making odd sounds from spices (complex weights which descended into sounds and lights when spices were thrown onto them), and sitting on a wooden swing under a banyan tree teaching Indian children how to work it.
Their mother was so grateful not to have to push anymore, she insisted on buying me hot nuts and ‘gooseberries’ (very sour) as we left, and even wanted to treat me to ice cream, bless her.
I had a massive slice of the renowned cheesecake from The Teapot earlier, which had more than lived up to its reputation, so more food was overkill as it was though,
So many people here are very kind, and love having English people, and yet so many simply want to make money, in whatever way they can, from the beggars (at least what you see is what you get) to the tuc tucs who go the wrong way, to the stalls who charge double or even more and then use ‘old’ currency as change (yes, I’ve been given money I can’t use, luckily not too much yet, but I’m learning the hard way never to let my guard down)
Kochi has been interesting, but, on reflection, rather a let down. Parts of the town are great, the art is an added bonus, the crowded streets and ferries of the ‘suburbs’ like North India in miniature….but the constant power shortages, the intense heat, the dirt (especially the ‘sea’ which is filthy and smells disgusting, industrial waste from the massive rigs at the mainland and pollution/rubbish etc.
I expected Kerala to be lush and modern after North India. Instead, whilst different, it is still incredibly hard, this time more mossies, less power, worse heat-impossible to sleep at night- still, every experience is an experience, I guess, and I have as many fond memories of my arrival in Kerala (at present) as bad ones.
Aspinwall house, the main venue, set in a massive disused spice warehouse by the beach, had stunning, moving, thought provoking and just fun exhibitions.
So I spent a happy hour before the sunset promenade absorbed in poetry and paintings, making odd sounds from spices (complex weights which descended into sounds and lights when spices were thrown onto them), and sitting on a wooden swing under a banyan tree teaching Indian children how to work it.
Their mother was so grateful not to have to push anymore, she insisted on buying me hot nuts and ‘gooseberries’ (very sour) as we left, and even wanted to treat me to ice cream, bless her.
I had a massive slice of the renowned cheesecake from The Teapot earlier, which had more than lived up to its reputation, so more food was overkill as it was though,
So many people here are very kind, and love having English people, and yet so many simply want to make money, in whatever way they can, from the beggars (at least what you see is what you get) to the tuc tucs who go the wrong way, to the stalls who charge double or even more and then use ‘old’ currency as change (yes, I’ve been given money I can’t use, luckily not too much yet, but I’m learning the hard way never to let my guard down)
Kochi has been interesting, but, on reflection, rather a let down. Parts of the town are great, the art is an added bonus, the crowded streets and ferries of the ‘suburbs’ like North India in miniature….but the constant power shortages, the intense heat, the dirt (especially the ‘sea’ which is filthy and smells disgusting, industrial waste from the massive rigs at the mainland and pollution/rubbish etc.
I expected Kerala to be lush and modern after North India. Instead, whilst different, it is still incredibly hard, this time more mossies, less power, worse heat-impossible to sleep at night- still, every experience is an experience, I guess, and I have as many fond memories of my arrival in Kerala (at present) as bad ones.
No comments:
Post a Comment