Monday, 11 February 2013

Contrasts

Varkala is the usual Indian blend of sharp contrasts….its an important pilgrimage site, and watching the holy ceremonies at paranasha beach yesterday is bizarre when the beach sands merge along into tourist hotspots, bikinis and cliff top restaurants.
Meanwhile the locals camp under the cliff by ‘their’ beach, washing in the sea and the stream descending from the cliff, which apparently washes away sins and cleanses the soul.
Today my two young friends left, and so I had my morning chai with Martin and Susan, from Alleppey, before hopping on the bus to the town to buy more moisture cream (half the price of the tourist shops here on the beach), fruit and some yummy savoury spinach pastries for lunch (10 rupees each)….all the food here seems to come fried or bathed in sugar/spices, not sure how I will get used to English food, but……..I do crave a salad!!!
One more day of walking –running even-along the sands, paddling in the surf, and watching the sunset, and then tomorrow I shall move on to Kovolam…Tina at my guest house here has recommended a friend’s place there which seems better value and better placed than those I researched in England, so I’ll see…..I’m having, of necessity, to go with my instincts, as nothing here is as it seemed from the comfort of home.
Last night I watched a free Indian musical on the beach, an Indian version of amateur dramatics, very over the top and loud, and then the fire dancers practising on the sands-I shall miss the sense of freedom –and, for this country, almost ease- of Varkala….tis indeed a spectacular site…a mecca for tourists as  much as pilgrims.

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