Kochi - Reflections….Reactions!

Finally discovered that the Indian Biennale, the art festival which is such a major deal here and yet, to my eyes, looks like western contemporary art from a decade ago, does have a cutting edge.
Aspinwall house, the main venue, set in a massive disused spice warehouse by the beach, had stunning, moving, thought provoking and just fun exhibitions.
So I spent a happy hour before the sunset promenade absorbed in poetry and paintings, making odd sounds from spices (complex weights which descended into sounds and lights when spices were thrown onto them), and sitting on a wooden swing under a banyan tree teaching Indian children how to work it.
Their mother was so grateful not to have to push anymore, she insisted on buying me hot nuts and ‘gooseberries’ (very sour) as we left, and even wanted to treat me to ice cream, bless her.
I had a massive slice of the renowned cheesecake from The Teapot earlier, which had more than lived up to its reputation, so more food was overkill as it was though,
So many people here are very kind, and love having English people, and yet so many simply want to make money, in whatever way they can, from the beggars (at least what you see is what you get) to the tuc tucs who go the wrong way, to the stalls who charge double  or even more and then use ‘old’ currency as change (yes, I’ve been given money I can’t use, luckily not too much yet, but I’m learning the hard way never to let my guard down)
Kochi has been interesting, but, on reflection, rather a let down. Parts of the town are great, the art is an added bonus, the crowded streets and ferries of the ‘suburbs’ like North India in miniature….but the constant power shortages, the intense heat, the dirt  (especially the ‘sea’ which is filthy and smells disgusting, industrial waste from the massive rigs at the mainland and pollution/rubbish etc.
I expected Kerala to be lush and modern after North India. Instead, whilst different, it is still incredibly hard, this time more mossies, less power, worse heat-impossible to sleep at night- still, every experience is an experience, I guess, and I have as many fond memories of my arrival in Kerala (at present) as bad ones.

Kochi

‘Omg’……KOCHI day 1
Translated as, I really don’t know where to start! Talk about a day of ups and downs.
Downer 1: The ‘taxi’ kindly provided by the Dropadi inn was the proverbial family member, in what was clearly not a taxi.
 Not least as I saw him changing (several times) into a clean shirt, and the car was full of debris from the family weekend in the car, hastily cleared away when I appeared.
In fairness, we got to the airport, though god knows how, his driving verged from very slow to manic….about half way, he flagged down another family member and asked me to change cars-at which point I worked out I’d be charged twice, and told him very clearly no, in colloquial English.
He then laughed, shook my hand, and carried on, but then when  we finally arrived, he demanded a tip. This also provoked a very very rude response, by then I’d taken the precaution of getting my luggage out first so to do a swift leg-it to the terminal.
Downer 2: domestic terminal in Goa resembles a holding cell in the asylum.
Two hours later, in the stifling heat and crowds (too many for the tiny hall), the plane was obviously delayed…at which point I lost the plot, and was only saved by a kind US ex-marine who spent ages telling me about his service in Afghanistan, bless him-told me I reminded him of his mother, which I’m not sure was a complement.
Upper 1: plane arrived-which is more than most of them did! And went off again very quickly, with a kind hostess assuring me, and a few others, they would ‘hold’ the Kochi flight. And Jet Airways performed their usual miracle of serving sandwiches, water, juice and cake, free, within the 45 minute flight.
Upper 2: Kochi flight was delayed anyway!! So my momentary ‘I can’t do this, I’m too old, too scared, it’s too much’ episode passed….the Indian chap next to me told me never to worry about what might not happen….my mind knows this, alas, my emotions run away with me anyway.
Upper 3: Kochi flight also Jet Airways, also more food…full marks!!
Upper 4: Managed to make an Indian ATM work, luggage arrived, transfer awaited…
Downer 3: 2 hours later…….in the dark, with a driver who spoke no English, I was convinced I’d been kidnapped, and had the third panic attack of the day!!
Upper 5: I hadn’t, it turns out the homestay is a long way away from the terminal….and not where I thought it was at all and a genuinely lovely family house...
Sheeba greeted me with hugs and kisses, fresh fruit, bananas in honey (I’ve had a lot of food today but it seemed rude to refuse), and showed me a clean, delightful bedroom with a new bathroom attached.
The rooftop breakfast awaits tomorrow, though there is free tea up there all day, and its gorgeous here, obviously a family home, but with 20 or so guests-mainly young, from those I’ve meet just sitting on the rooftop to recover.
Alas, no air conditioning, in fact, no windows really…The heat here is so intense, and so humid, that many of the houses, this one included, have simply netted the space where glass would normally go, to allow as much air as possible.
Its still 30 degrees as I type at 11pm, so not going to be as comfortable as it looks, in terms of sleeping…there is also no hot water, I guess on the grounds that its too hot, but it makes washing hard. The hot water from the tank is 'fairly’ safe, but cold water is lethal, and keeping mouth shut when showering in a single showerhead next to the loo (all Indian bathrooms are simply designed to drain away, eventually!) is going to be a nightmare.
The noise of birds, dogs etc is deafening, though no traffic or city noise, I guess I’m in a rural ‘bit’ of Fort Kochin, but will explore tomorrow……..
There is a TV, so am watching BBC for a taste of home before going to sleep to recover!
Or at least I was ….the power went out again……………….
DAY 2
Green Woods home stay is just that, green woods…the lovely owners Sheeba and her husband have created a green oasis in the middle of the city. The garden is lush, full of birds, and along the back runs a stream where ducks, swans, etc drift along.

As I suspected last night, light streams through the thin curtains, and with no glass, sounds drift up throughout the night, from birds (the worst!) to dogs, to children getting off to school at 7am….
It was a weird experience drawing the curtains to see what looks like an English garden, but it certainly doesn’t sound or feel like one.
Alas, power is a major problem in Kerala, and despite ‘set’ advertised times of outage, it tends to be more off than hot, so even the ceiling fan isn’t much help…the room is simply an oven, despite its western decoration.
Breakfast began with plentiful coffee, and then a home cooked Keralan meal, of rather solid pancakes, massive slabs of ‘wet’ bread, very chewy and not a bit like Hovis, boiled eggs, honey, bananas, pineapple and a weird rice based dish which I like, albeit mixed with honey….I really do have sugar in absolutely everything nowadays, it’s weird, my taste buds are functioning on Indian flavours.
The humidity is odd, and horrid, after the very dry heat of Goa…I seem to be in every possible climate, from snow in Delhi, to desert heat, and now a very clammy feeling…..everyone sweats profusely all the time, so I’ve no choice but to join them, ‘the wet look’ would be ok if it really was ‘cool’.  I now realise it was well worth paying for the a/c in Goa.
The hammock on the rooftop beckoned, but eventually I managed to find a map, get some advice from the helpful hosts, and set off to explore….
The Chinese fishing nets are spectacular, (I’m a dab hand at refusing to join in-costs a fortune in India), and just watching men haul the massive nets up and down with pulleys is fascinating.

The beach front overlooking the mainland/industry of Errakulem looked bizarre after the endless sands of Goa, but the town itself here, despite the power outages, looks very modern compared to anywhere I’ve been so far. Like most of India, this is an illusion….the wide roads  are cracked, full of holes –providing much labour –there is rubbish everywhere, the main difference being that instead of cows roaming wild, its goats here, as this is primarily Catholic-for non veggies, a delight!
Everyone ends up on the rooftop at lunchtime for a collective siesta-its very sociable here, many are regular visitors and full of advice.
Post siesta I wandered the narrow streets admiring tiny chapels and enormous basilicas, and the synagogues in jew town (its name, not my description). Frequently getting lost, people were endlessly helpful, and the children delightful, waving and smiling. There are a number of orphanages and homes here and by sunset the nuns were walking their charges, spotlessly uniformed, along the central beach front, treating them to ice cream and toys.
There are also, of course, beggars at every turn, disabled, or elderly, it disturbs me that I no longer take any notice of them.
There are many art galleries here, and tomorrow I shall explore more, and take the ferry over to the islands, but for tonight, I am simply worn out-the heat takes its toll-and even Sheeba’s kind insistence I join them for dinner was too much for me…..
Kerala is so different yet again from the state before, I’m continually bombarded with new sights, senses and having to reorientate, food, religion, customs, its exhausting.
DAY 3
Found the right route to town today, guided by a English couple from Manchester who treated me to the chain and ‘waddi’-a very bizarre savoury doughnut-en route.
The shacks are safer than the cafes., and cost less than 10p for about anything you want.
I had my by now very hairy eyebrows threaded very efficiently for 20 rupees (100=about 85p) so despite the red bruise left behind, the shape and price were good, so can’t complain.
The streets are fun, but the heat is immense, so I took the ferry to Vypen Island (2 rupees) and wandered in the shade watching the less touristy Chinese fishing nets in action. The ferries are an experience, it turns out its worth paying an extra half rupee to go on the passenger only one, as the motorbikes, rickshaws etc all pile on the other one, and then rush off taking any pedestrian in their path with them.
The evening stroll watching the sunset was fun, as was wondering the lanes which come alive at night. The small section of Bethlehem, where this is, is full of families chatting, trading (the rag and bone men and mobile carts sell everything, and houses become ‘shops’ in the evening…bartering is in order, apparently, but I haven’t got that sort of currency.
Alas, no power, and no power for hours in the evening- eventually I tracked down the (very lazy) manager, who called the electricity man, and we were back in 5 minites-Sheeba was furious when she returned….the trouble with India is its so inefficient.
DAY 4
The power is off again, and this time not local, the entire city is ‘out’…no one knows why, but its turning out to be a nightmare, and certainly tainting my experience of what is, in many ways, a gorgeous town. The flowers are all out in glorious Technicolor, smelling pleasant enough to almost knock out the drains, but the heat………….and with no sea to swim in, there is nowhere to escape.
I wandered out this morning (post breakfast, which is getting sparser by the day, the manager here is really lazy, and spoiling the hospitality of Sheeba and Ashley,  and for once had to take rickshaws everywhere, it’s too hot to walk even before 10am.
The ferry ride to Ennakulem, the mainland, was at least breezy, but also very choppy, and at 20 minutes, rather added to the general heat induced queasiness.
The mainland town is the usual contrast of looming skyscrapers and bazaars/markets. The sparkling new Food Mall was obviously a draw for the wealthy; the class divide was even more obvious.
The trip over passes through oil rigs, power stations, and enormous cargo containers: a few weeks ago one ran down a fishing boat, so the locals told me, and it’s easy to see how. The lunchtime run back to Kochi meant the boat was heaving, literally, and very low in the murky waters…
The queasiness turned out to be rather more than the heat-last night I was so tired I finally forgot and ran the tap over my toothbrush…..serves me right for letting my guard down in India.
Enforced rest in rooftop hammock!

 
Luckily it didn’t last long (so far!) and by mid afternoon I ventured out, convinced by a lurking rickshaw driver that it was too hot too walk-there are too many drivers, so for 20 rupees he looked desperate enough for me to take pity on him (and me).
A recuperative fruit juice in the renowned Kashi art café helped-it had a generator, so 6 of us shared both a table and their delicious chocolate cake/pies!! I’ve no idea of their names, but we spent a pleasant hour comparing notes, 3 Americans, 2 Germans, and me, assorted age range from 18-70.
By 5ish the heat finally abated slightly, so I walked the local streets of Mattacherry, past stalls/canals (full of rubbish) darkened shacks, three walls with a curtain for a door, and into Jew town-this time the tourist section, with spice markets/heritage shops, galleries etc.
By then, I was lost!
And having taken three rickshaws today, braved the local buses. Very efficient, very friendly and a very cheap way of having a guided tour of the city!
Locals pointed me onto one, where the driver told me to stand by him, and not pay, as he would show me the right bus when it went past –as I was going the wrong way, doh.
And, bless him, he did-I hopped off one, ran across the road, got on another, and ended up exactly where I intended, the bus terminal in Fort Kochi. It may have taken half an hour or so, but for 6 rupees, and a refreshing breeze (no windows!) it was fun.
And as I type, the power is on, fingers crossed!!
DAY 5, my last day in Kochi.
There is a breeze today, and the power shortages seem brief, rather than all day, and amazingly my stomach felt well enough to enjoy the grand breakfast-when Sheeba cooks, and the house is now full of guests again, we get a feast, banana fritters, pancakes, chapattis and chickpeas (bit too spicy for me first thing), eggs, Indian bread (ok if toasted properly) fruit….unfortunately when the manager and his wife do it, its been the bare minimum…
It may simply be a cultural difference-Sheeba and her husband is very westernised, and welcoming, whilst the staff is obviously locals.
Wandered –it’s hard to walk fast in the heat-to the Dutch Palace, only to find that and the synagogue shut as its Friday, but walking the tiny streets of Mattacherry is probably more fun. I finally brought a straw folding hat for 75ruppers, though suspect it may only last the day.
Gave in the a desperate rickshaw driver for a 30rupee ride back for siesta, but this time got the hard sell, taken all round the city to ‘do a favour, see this shop, see this building’, finally losing my temper I simply got out when I saw a street I recognised near the home stay, handed him 30 rupees and walked off. He followed me hooting for a few minutes, and then gave up, fortunately.

Moving on

Two more pictures for you: one of me (looking exhausted) at The Gateway to India in Mumbai….the taxi drivers had abandoned us around the city, so I found this, and a few more stranded group members, much to our relief, by asking everyone of every nationality….Mumbai was truly metropolitan, in every way!

And one of me relaxing with newly made friends in a beach bar in Palolem (they insisted on treating me to the local drink, which soon after this pic, found itself discretely dropped under the table, before I did!)

Once I’d recovered my equilibrium, I had a fantastic time here, my now local cinema provided evening entertainment, though my Indian spirituality obviously needs working on as I preferred Argo to Life of Pi………and I’ve spent the days walking, swimming, and exploring the local fishing villages, as well as the towns.
The village people are truly hospitable, seemingly delighted that people want to spend time with them rather than on the beach, although then the hard luck stories kick in and it’s very hard to tell what’s true…although tourism is clearly down here, and poverty is obvious away from the beach front.
The Tibetans in the German Bakery now cut up my cinnamon roll ready for me to eat half and take half, and have my coffee ready, bless them, no wonder it’s so famous.
I’m loath to leave now, but the next stage of my journey awaits tomorrow, when I have to move on solo….gulp! I fly to Kochin  then for the next stage of my travels…
I know this isn’t a holiday, its an adventure/travel/trip, whatever, but this week’s rest has been brilliant….now onwards to Kerala and new experiences, fingers crossed good ones!!!

Relaxing

After a few days of endless sun, sand and scenery, I am finally adjusting to a different pace of life, and to being ‘alone’. This place is so spectacular that somehow it added to the inevitable ‘low’ after the sheer exhilaration and adrenalin of the first two weeks.
If anyone had asked me before I left, I would have thought that this would be the ‘high’ after the exhaustion of the tour, but in fact the reverse was true, suddenly endless time to relax seems odd, as does being without the ‘group’ family.
But I’m adjusting-seeing the snow in England against the backdrop here of coconut trees waving against a blue sky has helped-and I’ve remembered more and more how to operate solo.
So here’s what I’ve done so far…..after venturing to the local town of Chaudi (Tesco’s will seem luxurious after Indian ‘supermarket’-a vast warehouse full of people tearing open packets and shouting in the stifling darkness-apparently the advent of these new ‘superstores’ is killing the local shops, but the people love them and throng in crowds), and wandering the beaches:
Joined a a honeymooning couple looking to save money by sharing a boat trip out to sea, a very sweet couple, who now have endless pictures with me sharing their precious moments (!), where we saw dolphins swimming alongside us, went ashore to the beautiful butterfly beach, and drifting about on the ocean admiring the coastline of Goa.
Made friends with a single parent from Sydney who insisted on showing me all her local traders-who now pester me endlessly but I’m very tough!-and then brought me my first Indian ice cream cone. Surprisingly I wasn’t ill, and it was lovely, very sweet.
I have developed a passion for sweet deserts here, now drinking masala tea and sugared coffee (all that chai must have distorted my taste buds, normal filter coffee tastes bitter here). I have breakfast at the famous Tibetan run German bakery of cinnamon rolls and a pot of milk coffee ( pot+about a litre-is 40 rupees, about 50p) and chatted to other locals, many of whom ‘winter’ here every year and are keen to tell me everything.
Found the way to buy lassi is from the chilled compartment in local shops, for 10 rupees, where they cut the corner and stick in a straw-gorgeous, and better value than the whole coconuts, which taste rather odd!
And last night I ventured to the local cinema, to see Argo, under the stars.
It was  a superb experience, the film was great – in English, excellent quality, projected onto a white sheet whilst we sat at tables eating roti and drinking mineral water –a friendly local told me her life story, although it sounded more like she’s seen ‘Eat, Pray,Love’ as the plot was remarkably similar………
And today I negotiated a deal with a local rickshaw driver to take me to Agona beach, about 20 minutes away, where I spent a pleasant few hours wandering along the beach, swimming……….yes, I’ve been swimming, its so hot and the water is so warm………and then he appeared, bang on time, to take me back . Tourism is down here, apparently, so for once the drivers are fairly reliable.
I may go out tonight to see ‘Life of Pi’ at the same place-though there is plenty of choice, as although the tv here works, BBC world gets somewhat repetitive after a while………….
It’s been good to catch up with myself and family, and have time to relax, I’ve still to brave the massage parlours, but I’m tempted….watch this space.

Palolem

Well, tis truly gorgeous here! A real contrast to Cangute, this seems like the Goa I was expecting…endless sands, hippies in beach huts, coconut trees (often being cut so watching out for falling coconuts is as much a hazard as the motorbikes!) and beach shacks selling fish, fakes and fantastical stuff of every description.
Yesterday I walked for miles along to Pattnem, a sleepy village in the middle of nowhere, with another gorgeous stretch of sand, and a very welcome café, where a pint of lassi and a litre of mineral water set me back all of 50p..
Just walking and ‘chilling’ is the in thing here, along with massages/yoga etc-I am tempted by a leg and foot massage, my feet, now bare or in flip flolps, are killing me!
Too much time travelling/sitting/eating and not enough walking has weakened my muscles.
This place is weird, a row of self contained units, more pricey than the beach huts, but with a/c, tv, hot water (when the power is on) and wi-fi (when it works) and a lovely garden, albeit also a  couple of long term Russians with ‘friendly’ dogs…but as the monkeys/stray dogs/ cows also do, it hardly seems worth worrying about!
Wednesday, I got up early for a tuc tuc ride to Chaudi, the nearest big town, with chemists, atms, and a supermarket (of sorts, very crowded, very hot, open packs everywhere and no prices…and of course power cuts every two minutes so it took ages to buy anything-but I have nivea and shampoo, so feel very English again!)
Am now indoors out of the midday sun, having a chai …my travel kettle has been so well used it must be about to give up the ghost, that, and my torch and sink plug, have been invaluable.
For those who want a laugh, I’ve sent a pic of me being taught how to make clay pots in Tordi, the village, by the locals-needless to say, I was not good!

and to prove I did it-a rather blurred one of me at the top of the mountain watching the sunrise at the sacred temple in Pushka.

Goa

Still reeling from our long day yesterday, the hours on the train rattling through India into Mumbai, the contrasts between the green lush rivers and mountains and the dusty townships, the horrendous slums spreading for miles around Mumbai, and then the metropolitan massive city, everyone opted to avoid breakfast and head straight to the relative peace of the airport.
Despite the brief timespan of the flight to Goa, lunch was served (thumbs up Jet Airways ) and on arrival we boarded yet more taxis through yet more green lushious countryside until finally at 2pm we arrive at Cangute….
Cangute was a shock, to say the least! The calm and serenity shattered by hoards of tourists, this is the most popular tourist spot of Inida, imagine Benidorm with more people, no infrastructure, even more alcohol, etc,,,,,
But I walked along the beach for miles, found very local markets-plus mosquitos- and spent two wonderful evenings at upmarket restaurants found by a now very cheerful Romi (who is off for a month to see his family!) and ended the tour in style, wine, birthday cake, and tears all round.
So off solo, feeling very alone with my ‘family’, the group, despite our disparate ages and backgrounds, have become very close, sharing so much in every way, I shall miss them all.
Shared a taxi to my first solo place, Palolem, in the South, which is such a relief after North Goa. The beach here is paradise, endless sands, beach shacks, not enough people to count as a crowd, ….the hotel is basic, but seems clean (though I have made that mistake before and found otherwise!) and within a footstep of the heavenly beach, where I hope to rest, walk, rest, walk---and do not much more for a few days.

Mumbai

Day train at 6am, arriving at 2pm, was an experience! I made good use of the chai waller, though also had to use the loos….still, chai was worth it!
Coming in through the slums is indescribable, though Romi assures us that the slums function well as an independent city, and certainly the abundance of satellite dishes is weird. But the sight of people literally living on the tracks, washing drying within inches of the wheels, children running wild, …so hard to see.
The city itself is massive, and manic. The hotel resembled the one in Delhi, i.e. a ***hole, as apparently its all available within the tour budget!
There wasn’t time to do much except find the Gateway to India, admire the luxury of the Taj hotel, and wander the crowded markets .
The contrast between the towering skyscrapers overhead and the grime and noise underneath is disconcerting, but despite having a room where I was literally lying above the busiest 24 hour junction in the area, I slept like a log-the horns must have a  lullaby all of their own.

Ahmedabad

Another early bus ride, with a stop at what counts as a motorway service station here, but OMG the loos!!!
But a pleasant surprise at ahemedad, for once a nice hotel!
Great, just for one night, finally we get hot water and a kettle, and a very brief glimpse of western lifestyles.
Though still not able to touch tap water-it’s weird how that now seems like a major luxury.
Alas, the lunch in the restaurant was typically Indian, i.e. took ages to come, everyone got the wrong dishes…..but in fairness it was good, when it arrives, like most of the food here.
Next to Gandhi’s ashram, left as it was when he stayed here during his lifetime, tiny sparse wooden huts, and many trees inscribed with his teachings.
This evening Romi took us to an all you can eat Gujerti restaurant, where I was given
A tray holding bowls, each filled with different dishes, sweet and savoury all at once.
Plus a cup of buttermilk, which I loved, like Lassi, now my favourite drink!
So much food, the sweets were fantastic, one bowl tasted just like ice cream, custard and jam, in a mousse, served with a superb sweet biscuit.

India is such a country of contrasts-I have eaten like the proverbial ‘holy’ cow. Which roam the streets eating everything, including street stalls produce…and as they are sacred animals, all the traders can do is shout a lot….
I now have limbs like elephants, and a stomach like a camel—we eat out every night, and always in good places, I have never eaten so much in my life!!

Udapihur and beyond

Day 2 in Udaiphur and this time a lie-in, and for me a wonderful morning discovering the mysterious Tiger lake…Romi insisted the tuk tuk drivers were lying to us, but it does exist, a silted up pond from the main lake, surrounded by tiger dedicated temples, and local ‘villages’….only about 20 minutes walk from the hussle and bussle of the main road.
Despite being the only white face, everyone seemed delighted to see me, demanding I take their photos as they worked holding back the weeds and digging out rubbish.
The beggar culture is disturbing, the sight of tiny children running wild and tugging at me, the grim and filth of their bedding by fires on the roadside, but also a genuine childish delight at demanding their photos-all they want is to see the picture of themselves, rather than demanding monies,
Back to rejoin the group for a cooking lesson on a rooftop in udaiphur, where I apparently am a natural with lentils! Between us we made a sumptuous veggie meal of paneer curries, mixed veg, rotis,chapatitis, and of course, chai.

We roamed the lanes of multi coloured markets until meeting Romi at the central temple to be shown around, make offerings (more monies involving a different coloured ticket to show who was being generous) and be allowed inside for the sunset service, very confusing, very noisy, but overwhelming and very moving
Then to a sunset cruise on the lake, drifting past splendid island palaces (now expensive hotels, alas) a peaceful, serene ride, away from the dust and noise of the city,
Supper at the delightfully cool ‘whistling teal’, a miniature oasis of fountains and flowers.

Udaiphur

Reached by the day from hell!
Pushkar ended on a high, as I wandered from my rooftop hideaway (I have the only inhabited room on an unfinished rooftop in the hotel, miles from any other soul-creepy, but fantastic views of the mountains, and very quiet!!-so unfinished, in fact, that when I phoned reception to get my bags, the chap assured me I must have the wrong room number as ‘roof not rooms’) into the town.
The kite festival we’d seen preparations for in every town was in full swing, and the crowds descending in their finery to bath in the lake.
Everywhere temples were handing out free food, and music/drums/bands etc in full swing-party atmosphere.
But by noon we had to be on the move again………
A packed minibus to reach the only long distance bus running from Pushkar, as today is a major holy day, and the start of a long religious festival.
The ‘sleeper’ bus-luggage racks converted into boxes with ventilation holes to hold inordinate amount of people/livestock- set off at 1pm. By 1.15pm we were so overloaded my ‘reserved seat’ was full of Indians, children and smelly packages, and bare feet from the boxes overhead…
We lurched, bumped and hiccupped through towns/lakes/dust-lots of dust-until a brief stop at 3.30, when everyone fell out….and once in, the driver refused to stop unless to let people off as whenever he did, more and more people simply climbed in and on…
So we went on till 8pm without a break.
The hotel in Udaiphur seems the best so far, but everyone is past carrying-we went straight to supper, and up to bed-my bones think they’ve all been shattered and can’t knit together.
Romi isn’t the best ceo in terms of communication-he’s very keen on his food, takes the best seats, and tends to forget what he’s told us to do and then shout at us for not knowing. In fairness, he’s apparently done 4 or so tours back to back, but ….still, the group have bounded in trying to work around him rather than with him, and at least he gets us around together.

Day 2 in Udaiphur.
Woke feeling as if I would never be able to move-the mountain climb, two hours on a camel and 8 on a metal seat in the bus from hell has beaten my body.

But eventually I made it out of bed and crawled off to the ‘orientation walk’-this time to a miniature painting business where a great chap painted an elephant on my nail and served us refreshing chai.

A wander around the spectacular City Palace museum was more fun than it sounds-like most of India, the palace is superb, on a scale far greater than envisaged, with intricate paintings, glorious carvings, inlaid marble and silver, precious stones woven into the walls, tapestry, etc.
Home of many of British rulers, the recent rooms show the changing face of India as the British influence took over the interior design-fascinating.
Lunch at ‘The Whistling Teal’, yes, an archetypal tea shop, where I had a delicious pizza (anything which isn’t curry is now delicious) and at supper tonight I had a vegetarian macaroni with cheese which was fabulous-so glad to not have curry or chapattis!!!
Went to the cultural show before supper, which, like the palace, undersells itself name –wise, an hour of whirling dervishes, fire dancers, women balancing 12 pots and dancing on glass…..enough excitement to build up a very healthy appetite for our supper on a rooftop terrace overlooking the lake and its island buildings-complete with fireworks –home from home.

Pushkar

The seventh wonder of the world, apparently, the holiest place in India, where drinking, smoking etc is strictly forbidden.
Reached by yet another 4 hour jeep ride across rural India, this city is truly magical.
There are more temples than any other building, plus sacred cows everywhere, even atop roofs.
The colour shines from silver/glitter/gold carvings, colourful statues of numerous Deities, and market stalls lining alleys leading to a holy lake.
The first evening we arrived at yet another ‘good’ Indian hotel (i.e. basic, no hot water and very iffy power-my own plug and torch are proving invaluable).
Down through the market to watch the sunset over the holy lake, serenaded by musicians and beggars-mainly children-then on to a fabulous dinner at a place called ‘out of the blue’ …..A choice without curries, yippee!!
An Israeli supper of falafel and humus gave me strength to agree to a 5 am mountain climb to watch the sunrise….and so a few hours later…………..
It was a very steep climb, uneven rocks, lit only by the odd lamp, but, armed with our torches, about half the group, 8 of us, braved the cold and pitch black, and took the tuk tuk at 5 am to the foothills and off we set.
By the time we reached the top over an hour later the pink glow was emerging in the sky, and we drank chai to the sound of temple bells as a perfect globe rose above us.
Down for a well deserved massive breakfast of pancakes, banana and honey!
And then for another first-a two hour camels ride into the sand dunes…my legs are so000 sore this evening.
But worth every minute (and rupee). Our guides set up a camp in the desert and cooked us supper (curry, yes, but with chai, coke, and traditional sweet deserts, so the full three course menu) which we ate on cushions as fire dancers whirled between us.
Today I have been in India a week, but it feels like a year-the sensory overload is overwhelming, the peace and ‘spiritual’ air transcends the grim and filth, and despite the exhausting travel, the experiences have been extraordinary. This truly is a magical country.

Tordi

A village in the middle of nowhere, reached by a 3 hour jeep ride through bumpy dust tracks into the mountains of rural India….
Enroute we passed ‘tent’ villages and straw huts, mud townships with no water/electricity or anything at all, it’s amazing to see how people find ways of making a living out of nothing, the soil is parched, but cattle feed on every part, even rubbish.
Our village guest house was connected to power, the wealthy owner having returned to bring empowerment to his village by transforming his run down family inheritance and welcoming guests.
It was a beautiful remote spot, the family provided food/drinks-more curries (alas that night in the eternal battle of ‘woman versus curry’ food marginally won, but that was the first battle I’ve lost so far!)
We were taken on a guided tour of the village, where local men, women and children clustered around demanding a photo shoot, and welcoming us into their houses-seems v very odd after British reserve, but, as promised, they were genuinely pleased to see us, the children happy and full of smiles-the women tell us in India the children are taught to be happy however little they have, that is the most important moral.
Sitting in the sand dunes watching the sun set over rural India was magical, the only lights the odd headlight from the far away highway. That evening we ate dinner under the stars, whilst Romi (our ceo) recounted Indian beliefs and celebrations.

Jaipur

5 hour bus ride from hell, every bone aches as the bus lurches along, groaning, horns blaring, jolting, stopping only once in the filthiest 'rest' stop i've ever seen...Indian public transport certainly makes British rail look good!
But Jaipur is great, the sun is hot from noon

onwards, we have a gorgeous roof top terrace, and i've now experienced:

Bicycle ricksaw: very nerve racking!!!

Tuk Tuks through souks, up mountains to fort (Amber

Palace is stunning, and the hill wall goes on for miles...as far as the eye can see into the mountains)

The superb Hawal

Palace (the wall built for ladies to watch the parades through the tiny holes

i.e. it has no back, only a front!)

pigs feasting in alleys full of rubbish.

monkeys at every turn.

            camels and cows roaming in the middle of the busiest roads i've ever seen.

Dogs & beggars everywhere.

the most beautiful intricate artwork and carvings in temples.

                                    Julie, Edwina and Lauren about to climb to the Amber Palace
Tonight we've attended the premiere of a Bollywood film at the major Majestic complex here.
The audience participation slightly different to English reserve, the film superb, no need for sub titles!
More curry again for dinner ...though we've gone mainly to veggie cafes, cheap but clean and fab food, 200 rupees for a three course meal is grand, and I'm certainly eating well!
We take the remaining food outside for the beggar families who follow us everywhere.
This is such a different world, but so fascinating. England
seems so strange in comparision

Agra

5 am jet lagged start Tuesday in the freezing cold for dawn train to Agra.

Worth it though, served 'breakfast'-sweet tea and curry- in s/c a/c car as sun rose over Indian countryside.
The tent people who line the railway were my first glimpse of the grinding poverty I've already got used to-by now - the sight of beggar children is so commonplace it seems normal.

In Agra the first of many tuk tuk rides, post restorative lunch (more curry) and a fascinating guided tour of Taj Mahal, Baby Taj, Agra Fort and the sunset over the river.

The sharp contrast of  the stunning beauty of the Taj and the burning bodies in the crematorium alongside as the sun set moved me to tears.

The group is good fun, 16 of us, mainly young, but a retired couple and another more senior gentlemen, so I'm not the oldest, and everyone is very friendly/easy going, and it already feels like a 'family'

first fortnight's tour details

Places Visited

·                                 India

Day 1 Delhi

Arrive any time.

Day 2 Agra

Morning train to Agra. Options to visit Taj Mahal, Red Fort, Baby Taj.

Days 3-4 Jaipur

Orientation walk in Jaipur. Optional visit to Hawa Mahal and the Amber Fort.

Day 5 Tordi Sagar

Dive into rural life visiting potters, cobblers and markets. Take a camel cart ride to the dunes for sunset, head for a hike in the hills or make bangles and try henna paint with the local women.

Day 6-7 Pushkar

Orientation walk upon arrival. In the morning, climb to Savitri Temple perched atop a hill and catch the sunrise. Have a meal with a local family, enjoy dinner on the dunes with entertainment or explore the town.

Day 8-10 Udaipur

Orientation walk and optional visit to the Lake Palace.

Day 11-12 Ahmedabad/Mumbai (Bombay)

Visit Mahatama Gandhi's ashram in Ahmedabad before continuing on to Mumbai, the 'Gateway of India', where your CEO will take you on an orientation walk.

Days 13-14 Goa

Head to the beach, explore Old Goa, sample tasty treats at the night markets and take in the nightlife of this coastal city.

Day 15 Goa
Depart at any time.